Incubation Thermometers

Temperature is one of the four key components of successful incubation and failure to maintain the correct temperature accounts for the vast majority of hatch failures... and poor thermometer selection is among the leading causes of incorrect temperatures.
WARNING: Inexpensive, digital thermometers may give the appearance that the temperature is correct, BUT these readings are frequently misleading.  For best results, be very selective in choosing your thermometer.
The purpose of this webpage is to provide guidance in the selection and calibration of thermometers suitable for use in artificial incubation.

Why are common digital thermometers
 
inadequate for artificial incubation?

Digital dual purpose hygrometers/thermometers are popular among backyard hobbyists. They are readily available, inexpensive, and easy to use. However, they are a very poor choice for artificial incubation:
  • They cannot be calibrated: The easiest method for calibrating home instruments is submerging the thermometer in either a ice water or boiling water bath. Most digital thermometers would be destroyed by such baths. Additionally, even if they could be submerged, they do not have a calibration setting... their readout cannot be altered.

"I have model 00613. When the temperature in the house is 69 degrees it says 72. When the temperature is 75 in the house it says 73."

  • They are inaccurate: They have an accuracy error rating of ±2.0°F meaning that while the readout displays 99.5°F the actual temperature can range anywhere between 97.5°F to 101.5°F.

    "My Acurite 00309SBDI is reading 72°F but it is actually 75°F (verified 75 using a Fluke Multi-meter) I would think a device that is suppose to tell temperature would be more accurate."

    This accuracy error is in ADDITION to any calibration error. If there is a 1.0°F calibration error and a 2.0°F accuracy error, the incubator temperature can be off by a full 3.0°F.
     
  • They have a poor response time: How quickly a thermometer registers a change in temperature is referred to as "response time." Sensors encased in plastic have poor response time... it can take up to 30 minutes for some thermometers to respond to a change in temperature.
"It only takes about 1/2 an hour to reflect the temp."

WARNING: Problems associated with high or low temperatures are often not seen until hatch time. Poor temperature control produces weak chicks that do not have the stamina to hatch. Far too often, people blame the humidity for these problems when the real problem was temperature Days 1-18.

Effects of Temperature Variations
Prolonged High Temperature Prolonged Low Temperature
  • early embryonic death
  • blood ring (early death)
  • death of embryo days 7-17
  • early hatch
  • extended hatch window
  • small, weak chicks
  • chicks with unhealed dry navel
  • malpositioning
  • deformities
  • short wiry down
  • blood ring (early death)
  • death of embryo days 7-17
  • dead in shell, not pipped
  • dead in shell, pipped
  • partially zipped, membrane partially torn
  • late hatch
  • extended hatch window
  • chicks with unhealed wet navel, soft bodies
  • malpositioning
  • deformities

Inaccurate and variable temperature is the major cause of hatch failure.
Chicks can develop all the way to hatch time and pip but fail to finish.


WARNING: Do Not Trust the gauges that came with your incubator. Verify that both the temperature and humidity readings are correct with a calibrated thermometer and hygrometer. It is recommended that this verification be repeated periodically. If there is a reading difference between the incubator panel and the calibrated thermometer, trust the calibrated thermometer.

Digital Thermometer Selection Criteria
1.  Calibration Setting: Can the thermometer's reading be altered?
  Most thermometers do not provide a correct reading straight out of the box... this includes thermometers that are calibrated at the factory. For best results, choose a thermometer that can be calibrated and the reading adjusted.
2.  Submersible: Can the thermometer be submerged in an ice water bath?
  Within the home environment, using an ice water bath is the best method for checking a thermometer's reading. If a thermometer cannot be submerged in an ice water bath, then the reading cannot be verified.
3.  Temperature Range: Does the thermometer read down to 32.0°F?
  Within the home environment, using an ice water bath is the best method for checking a thermometer's reading.  If a thermometer cannot read down to 32.0°F, then the reading cannot be verified.
4.  Accuracy: Does the thermometer have an accuracy of ±0.5°F?
  A thermometer's accuracy rating reflects its acceptable error range meaning if a thermometer has an accuracy of ±2.0°F and reads 99.5°F, then the actual temperature may be anywhere between 97.5°F and 101.5°F. For best results, choose a thermometer with an accuracy of no less than ±0.5°F.
5.  Response Time: How quickly does the thermometer reflect temperature changes?
  Thermometers encased in plastic often respond very slowly to temperature changes... we do not get an immediate response. Alternately, some of the more accurate thermometers respond too quickly to changes resulting in readings that bounce around. We want something that responds quickly, but not too quickly.

WARNING: Do not confuse the difference between Celsius and Fahrenheit. Some manufacturers list their accuracy as ±1° likely meaning ±1.0°C that translates into ±1.8°F. 0.5°C translates into 0.9°F.  If the specifications are not perfectly clear, do not purchase.

  AcuRite 00613 AcuRite 01083 Brinsea Spot Check IncuTherm CheckTemp 1 SensorPush
Calibration Setting: No Yes No No Self No
Submersible: No No Yes No Yes No
Temperature Range: 32° to 122° F -4° to 158° F 90º to 104ºF Unknown -58.0 to 302.0°F -40°F - 140°F
Accuracy: ± 2°F ± 0.5° F ± 0.2ºF Unknown ±0.5°F ±0.5°F
Response Time: Up 30 minutes Up to 8 Minutes Rapid Unknown Instant 1 Minute
 

TIP: When purchasing a digital thermometer, be sure to carefully read the product description and specifications. Reading several customer reviews may be helpful in identifying major characteristics. If a specification such as accuracy cannot be identified, then do not purchase the product.

TIP: Customer reviews are helpful in revealing negative traits that the manufacturer attempts to hide. Select only thermometers with several customer reviews paying close attention to the negative comments. It's best to discover potential problems before you buy rather than on hatch day.

Calibrating a Thermometer
Freezing Point Boiling Point
  1. Fill a glass with crushed ice cubes and cold water.
  2. Stir the water and let sit for 3 minutes.
  3. Stir again, then insert your thermometer into the glass, making sure not to touch the sides.
  4. The temperature should read 32°F (0°C).
  5. If it doesn’t, loosen the glue holding the glass to the scale, move the glass up or down as needed.  For digital models, follow the instruction manual.
  6. Recheck accuracy and secure the tube.
  1. Boil a pot of distilled water.
  2. Once the water has reached a rolling boil, insert your thermometer, making sure not to touch the sides or bottom of the pot.
  3. The temperature should read 212°F (100°C).
  4. If it doesn’t, loosen the glue holding the glass to the scale, move the glass up or down as needed.   For digital models, follow the instruction manual
  5. Recheck accuracy and secure the tube.

A Case for Glass Thermometers
Lately, there’s been a great deal of focus on the best humidity settings for incubation and hatch. Unfortunately, far too many novices seem to blame humidity for poor hatch results. The more experience I gain, the more I believe that a healthy, vigorous chick will hatch regardless of the humidity settings…. temperature remains the most important key to a successful hatch.

Air Temperature: the air temperature within the incubator. Even with the most expensive incubator, air temperatures will consistently fluctuate (vary). The temperature will rise when the heating element comes on and then it will drop when the element goes off – frequently as much as a full degree (even more so with cheaper incubators). The more insulation and effective the air flow, the less the air temperature will vary. However, these variations only have a minimum impact on the developing embryo.

Realized Temperature: the temperature physically experienced by the embryo. The developing chick is insulated from the air temperature by its cuticle (bloom), shell, inner and outer membranes, and the albumen (egg white). Just as it takes time to boil a pot of water or freeze water in an ice tray, it takes time for the embryo to physically experience a rise or fall in air temperature. How quickly an egg’s temperature changes depends on factors such as humidity, air speed, and egg size.

Broody Hen Example: When a broody hen sits on a clutch of eggs, she is using conduction (touch) to transfer heat to the eggs with only one side being warmed at a time. A hen’s internal body temperature runs between 105-107°F and we can assume that the temperature of heated side of the egg is well above the 99.5°F that we commonly use in artificial incubation. That broody hen will turn her eggs up to 50 times a day so that no one side is heated/cooled for an extended period of time. From her example, we can learn that temperature variation is of less importance than the AVERAGE temperature physically experienced by the developing embryo – the “realized” temperature.

The Problem with Digital Thermometers: When I started back incubating a few years ago, I spent quite a bit of money on thermometers. Unfortunately, those expensive thermometers were useless in an incubation environment. In fact, most were detrimental (damaging) especially the most responsive ones like the renowned Brinsea Spot Check. You see, accurate and responsive digital thermometers react to even the slightest change in air temperature. When the heating element comes on, the reading rises. When the heating element cuts off, the reading drops. These variations caused me to fiddle with my thermostat… and fiddling with the thermostat with eggs in the incubator can cause all sorts of problems.

The Solution: Expensive digital thermometers do not work well for me. They accurately and precisely measure the “air” temperature but they aren’t very helpful in measuring the “realized” temperature. What I needed was a thermometer that reacted to changes in air temperature more slowly… one that measured the average air temperature… one that better represented the “realized” temperature. My solution was to return to the inexpensive, calibrated, red spirit filled thermometer (old faithful) I had first purchased at Tractor Supply shortly after my wife gave me a Little Giant incubator for Christmas. That thermometer responds to changes in air temperature but more slowly… more in line with what the embryo actually experiences. Since I returned to using old faithful, my babies hatch when they are they are scheduled – and that is the true measure of a good thermometer.

Lesson Learned: Newer and more expensive does not mean better. Since my Little Giant days, I’ve moved on to bigger and more expensive incubators; however, my good and faithful glass thermometer remains the cornerstone of my temperature monitoring. At this very moment, she sits in my hatcher constantly keeping vigilance over my hatching babies.


TIP: A glass thermometer need not be expensive. However, it MUST read down to 32°F do that it can be calibrated and it must be large enough to easily read. You can easily judge the accuracy of the glass thermometer… If chicks begin to hatch on day 21, then your thermometer is spot on.


Calvin & Cindy Roberts
488 County Road 335
San Augustine, Texas 75972
(936) 652-1940 • mail@robertsfarm.us